RE: Prowler frame is weak and falling apart
Regarding that fix - from a CW's perspective - did you drill and halt those cracks first? Are you good at controlling your heat? By looking at the welds, I'm guessing your a hobby welder. That 1/4" to that web needs good control, especially with the different alloys, or you can make matters worse. I used to do chassis work professionally when I worked for and upfitter and still contract out structural work with trailer chassis being the second largest part of my work. So, another question I pose is whether you squared and tracked your axles or just welded the hanger where it sat? Looks like you have double eye springs, and I'd be concerned rolling with that one busted you lost the arch.
RE: Tires Balanced ?....WTH
You can only get a true balance on a trailer with a loaded, on-"vehicle" machine. It matters not if you balance hub or lug-centric because they mean nothing in the whole of the trailer running gear system. Why? The tolerances on trailer axle and spindle assembles just isn't there (let alone the hub-drums) - I know, I see them jig welded constantly, and torsion axles are even worse. They are no where near automotive specs... If they were, we'd pay so much more but then we'd also have less tire issues!!!
The best thing you can do for trailer tires - make sure you do not have excessive runout - try to pair the tire runout to the wheel runout so the tolerance is as tight as it can be. The straighter they run, the less heat they'll produce.
If it makes you feel better to balance the tire to the wheel, it certainly does no damage, but don't do so until the runout is matched. The very minimal effect on the true running of the trailer is probably not worth the expense. Some places just balance regardless free of charge. Where I took my two trailers recently knew trailers and the Hunter 9700 was chucked with a lug-centric adapter, assembly loaded (it's a road force machine), and then tested for eccentricity, runout, and lateral force. Had to break the bead on 4 out of 10 tires and spin them on the wheels (3 were Maxxis M8008s and the other one was a Denman Express).
FYI - my equipment manager just had our low-boy in a frame shop because it was eating tires under the load of 11,000 pounds of fluid. The frame shop corrected the triangulation to the coupler, and then squared and tracked the axles - $561 of labor, installed 4 new tires $520, and balanced them on the trailer with a strobe-spinner unit for $300!!!
FYI - I would NOT use a product like Equal or other "permanent" balancer powder or gel in a recreational trailer tire. While this and several other prodcuts are used in over-road semi trailers, it's a different animal IMO.
RE: Rockwood Roo - Awning Color
We got lucky, one of Shamrock's primary colors is green. All models have green on them, and our awning is green! Factory probably just got another bulk supply as the 2009s that were on my dealer's lot and opened were both grey.
RE: forest river shamrock
Yep, Shamrock and Roos are identical twins dressed in different clothes.
Our 21SS suits us so well we question why we didn't upgrade sooner...
RE: Have you had Front Bunk End Water Leaks!!!!
Yes, front. Dealer replaced all damage and installed replacement single seal EXACTLY like FR instructed them to. It was shorter than my original from the factory - didn't fly in my book. I dealt personally with FR and received replacement primary and a new secondary seal (one of the various revisions of that secondary) and installed myself. Will be changing to the new push-on trim with weatherstrip bulb.
RE: ’08 ROO, Another Front Bunkend Water Leak
Peep, try the new push-on trim FR is using with the bulb seal. It's cheap from an automotive restoration supply as it's a standard section. The way it seals just makes more sense. I bought a roll but haven't had time to do the swap.
If you stick with the MDF panel top, how about just closing the end using a panel J-trim set in polyurethane?
RE: What I'd like to see in the Roo or Jayco 23SS
Freshwater:
I agree on the FW tank issue, and the Dexter chassis FR uses on the HTTs are completely adequate for an underslung tank, but know what the issue is? FR doesn't want to have to have a tank designed and put into production for this as there are no standard FW tanks that can span the rails without need for more steel and then bottom support (more material and effort = more cost, less profit). The polyethylene tank in them now is a standard rectangular tank, no reinforced bottom and would sag and stress crack. My approach would be this, for FR to use a taller, narrow width, tank that spans the length of the camper under the forward cabinet against the front wall. This would still allow good gravity and city fill locations as well as drain and tap ports. It would offer much better, uniform tongue loading, and would allow great storage space and give 40 gallons if need be (333# of water). We're talking a tank 6" wide by 18" tall by 86 inches - EZ and not so custom needed if FR sits it on the floor and provides two intermediate, cushioned straps to confine it and maintain the shape (we weld our own up for our field trucks fitted in a similar way).
Cabinetry:
FR - PUT SOME THOUGHT INTO IT! They seem to miss the boat and waste a lot of space. I know much is a result of cost savings and construction speed, but some are just so obvious it hurts... The kitchenette in the 21SS has room for another complete drawer if they just aligned the height of drawers to that of the cainet door. The 21SS has outside storage (wide door) under the jackknife, but a single narrow door under it internally. See FW above, but even if they just rotated the existing tank INTO the front cabinet, you'd have use of the cabinet under the entertainment center, fine access to the drain, and wouldn't lose much more than already lost in the front cabinet. Hello, shelves? How about if you leave the water pump where it is, use all the space above for drawers. Oh yeah, why is the water filter hung low, dead center of the front cabinet? These are all things that can be modified, but also a little thought at the factory would make such a smarter product.
RE: Chevy 5.3l Change 3.73 Rear End to 4.11 ???
I don't think those responding are getting your question. The answer you seem to seek is will is shift where your powerband sits. 4.10s from 3.73 will keep you locked in the 55-60 mpg cruising speed quite well. It is up to you as to whether or not paying for the swap is worth it. Usually, $600 to $1000 from a pro shop depending on what else you do and what install kit. I do gears myself, so I'd do it without second guessing for the price of parts, but I sense you are thinking about a shop. Let me encourage you to check out salvage yards for a GM 10-bolt already loaded with 4.10s from the factory and just swap the entire differential. It's actually a lot easier and cheaper! You can generally buy a complete late model 10-bolt rear for $400.
RE: second trailer rules
Problem is the laws have been changing, but no-one is paying websites like those to keep up! I also hold a CDL, and let me tell you, there have been a LOT of changes THROUGHOUT the country since I actually used it regularly! I looked them up recently to do some studying up and learned quite a bit, and corrected a lot of information that was being tossed around here. Best thing I can tell you to do is go look up the regulations yourself. Many are on-line, and you'll find at least your state's in the local library if not others too. In all my years on this planet, I can tell you not to rely on what's told to you by a DMV/MVA agents or officers, read the facts for yourself.
Don't know what you do, but what's been a nice thing about DOT physicals for me is that they're nothing compared to those for HAZWOPER, which my final career requires, and it only takes checking off another box to get my current card during my regular physicals.
RE: Im Happy but again Sad
You can actually read my experience with Carlisles, which were from the factory. The cracked carcasses are now back in Carlisle's hands and I put Maxxis tires on the HTT at Carlisle's expense (waiting for the check). Had I had a little more time, I would have put Denman's on it, which I finally found (last ST radial made in North America), and just put a set on my box trailer to replace ~2 year-old rotting Duros.
RE: Im Happy but again Sad
Plenty of new memories to come! My wife and I had similar seperation anxiety with our PUP, but our 21SS is so much more enjoyable camping in! Even with the problems I've had, and not the best of experiences with my dealer and Forest River, I still don't regret the choice as the floorplan and HTT were perfect for us!
One terrific benefit you have is the wealth of knowledge shared here from with great mods, good repairs, and just good experience!
Enjoy! BTW - ST 205/75 R14 will be your tire!
RE: Need help with next mod - dinette extension
One of my non-camping hobbies is carpentry (dad was a master carpenter - the real kind, not today's "carpenters"). Anyway, poke around www.rockler.com, or better yet, get one of their catalogs. There are literally dozens of options for making drop-leaf tables, hidden leaf, etc. Personally, I would probably do a hidden leaf (split table where a third leaf drops under to store it) so that way it still allows you to maintain the same dimension and a flat top for making the dinette a bed, but then you can set it up larger.
Thanks for the URL Scott, I will take a look. I can't really go with a hidden leaf, since the existing table is mounted on 2 pedestals, and I'd like to keep that if possible. I'll take a look at some of the table hardware options they have, they look interesting.
Ah, but you can! Piece of cake to make a baseplate to allow sliding over one pedestal! Maybe even an easier option because you could then drop the leaf in...
EDIT: Sorry I realized that this might have sounded pompous! I also happen to be a CW so working with metal comes very easy to me. I still think you could mock something up, though maybe a little bulky with wood. Have you ever seen older style leaf tables were they use wood rails?
RE: Need help with next mod - dinette extension
One of my non-camping hobbies is carpentry (dad was a master carpenter - the real kind, not today's "carpenters"). Anyway, poke around www.rockler.com, or better yet, get one of their catalogs. There are literally dozens of options for making drop-leaf tables, hidden leaf, etc. Personally, I would probably do a hidden leaf (split table where a third leaf drops under to store it) so that way it still allows you to maintain the same dimension and a flat top for making the dinette a bed, but then you can set it up larger.
RE: Best trailer tires
Denman Express Radials - Made in Mexico, always have been, at the same plant. Denman is an American tire company, headquarted in Ohio, and still makes their Express Bias in Ohio. Denman is know for high-quality tires for construction equipment. Search for my user name and you'll find a bunch of current information. Happy Camping!
RE: Jayco 26L Owners... Pictures Needed.
I agree. I just can't figure out why there are no noticeable signs of stress or cracks in the fiberglass.
I previously replied to you on this but it may have been lost in the other thread. Fiberglass is NOT a solid! It's actually amorphous, and can slowly strain. It's only brittle fractures under sudden and shock-type loads.
I do remember and appreciate your knowledge. Just my line of thinking is that the luan behind the fiberglass is not as likely to be as forgiving as the fiberglass. The plies are glues and alternating in 90 degree directions - not unlimited directions as the fiberglass. Any stress could likely cause separating of the wood strands and fibers and ultimately cause delamination in the plies of the wood. This I would think result in some sort of bubble or stess indication in the fiberglass. Even if not, the little areas of fiberglass spanning the top and bottom of the trailer to the opening at the slide-out (6" or so) don't yield alot of structural support and would seem to be a very likely area to show signs of weakness - especially since it looks like the sag starts immediatly behind the slide area.
The more I think about what could be going on that could never be noticed before, during, and after repairs (inside the walls, such as delamination of fiberglass and wood that surfaces years later), I get more concerned. How do you argue that delamination or spiderwebbing three years from now are a result of stresses in the structure that were never seen? I guess I'll just inspect and photo the death out of it before it goes in and hope for the best.
The composite sandwich will slip quite a bit! I don't know Jayco's particular, but in general it's styrofoam sandwiched between external gelcoat fiberglass and an interior panel board (usually not true luan, but a thinner, less dense species for weight). Anyway, when I was working with the early stuff, you could shear a full-height panel over an 1.25" before the adhesive would let loose. Someday maybe they'll use the good stuff with urethane core and doesn't need a seperate adhesive.
RE: I fibbed, here's a 4th morning query
Yeah, no bag with the Sidekick, but mine doesn't need it. It hasn't ever left my garage because I'm not one to grill against Filon and I like the awning down! Broil King Portachef and custom hose connected to the pigtail that was meant for the RVQ/Sidekick.
RE: bunk end fan/light combos
This is a VERY COMMON problem with the ones FR supplies. Many of us are on our 3rd set! This last replacement, I struck a deal with my dealer to get FR to authorize replacement value, which I then applied towards a different brand that looks very much the same but has a good reputation for the difference of $9 each fan/light.
RE: Hoping to get off cheap from blow out damage....
Fabguy, that's definitely more than $500 in damage if you want it restored to like new condition. I was formerly a body/paint/chassis man for an upfitter slaving to put myself through school at night...
RE: Jayco 26L Owners... Pictures Needed.
I agree. I just can't figure out why there are no noticeable signs of stress or cracks in the fiberglass.
I previously replied to you on this but it may have been lost in the other thread. Fiberglass is NOT a solid! It's actually amorphous, and can slowly strain. It's only brittle fractures under sudden and shock-type loads.
RE: Dual Battery Question
Nick,
Only requires 8 gauge in the tight marine strand mounted there. I made all new cables for positive and negative sides and dumped the crimped ring terminals in lieu of tinned lugs I potted on and then heat shrinked. Factory cables had corrosion wicked 2" up under the insulation in only 1 year!
Scott
